For buying your next home before you sell
Bridging finance: buy your next home before you sell, and know what the debt peaks at
You've found the next home, and yours isn't sold yet. A bridging loan lets you buy first: the lender lends against both homes, the interest is usually added to the loan, and the sale pays the bridging part down. What decides whether it works is two numbers, the debt at its peak and the debt left at the end. And at Firstmac, the second one is tested as if your home sells for 20% less than it's worth.
20% less than its value: what Firstmac assumes your home sells for when it tests the debt left at the end [1]
6 or 12 months: the only bridge periods Firstmac offers, chosen at the start, with no extension in its policy [1]
80% of the value: the most Firstmac lends at the peak, and on the tested end debt after the sale [1]
The bridging finance guide
Twenty-five questions people ask before they buy before they sell, answered from a lender's own bridging policy and worked through in dollars.
What is bridging finance, and how does a bridging loan work?
Bridging finance is a loan that lets you buy your next home before you've sold the one you're in. "Bridging finance" and "bridging loan" are two names for the same thing. For a few months you own both homes, and the loan covers the gap between the two settlements.
The lender takes a mortgage over both properties. The interest is usually added to the loan rather than paid each month. When your old home sells, the money from the sale pays down the bridging part, and what's left becomes an ordinary home loan on the new one. That's the structure Firstmac's published lending policy sets out [1], and it's the one this guide works through.
Can you get a home loan to buy before selling?
Yes. A home loan to buy before you sell is what a bridging loan is for, and it's one way upsizers and downsizers move: the right home comes up while yours is still on the market, and waiting would mean missing it.
Buying first isn't the only way to line two moves up. You can sell first, or buy on terms that give your sale time to happen. Part 14 compares all three. Bridging is the one that costs money while it runs, so it's worth knowing the numbers before you choose it.
Closed and open bridging: what's the difference?
Closed bridging means your old home has already sold, with a settlement date, but it settles after you need to buy. Open bridging means your old home isn't sold yet. The difference decides how much risk you carry, because only one of them has a known end date.
| Closed bridging | Open bridging | |
|---|---|---|
| Your old home | Sold, with a settlement date | Not sold yet |
| When the bridge ends | Known from the start | Not known: it depends on the sale |
| What it sells for | Known | Not known |
| The lender's risk | Smaller | Larger, so it asks more of you |
| What a lender asks | Evidence of the sale | Your home listed for sale, as the lender requires |
What is peak debt on a bridging loan?
Peak debt is the most you'll owe at any point during the bridge. It's your existing home loan, plus the price of the new home, plus the purchase costs such as stamp duty, plus the interest and fees added to the loan while you own both.
At Firstmac the debt peaks at the end of month six, because interest for months four to six is added to the loan and no repayments are made in the first six months [1]. Peak debt matters because it's the figure the lender caps, and the base for the interest on a 12-month bridge's later months.
What is end debt?
End debt is what's left after your old home sells and the money from the sale goes to the loan. It becomes your ongoing home loan on the new property.
At Firstmac, where there is an end debt the loan can run for up to 30 years in all. Where the sale clears everything and there's no end debt, the loan term is the bridge period, so the loan simply ends when the bridge does [1].
Peak debt and end debt, worked through in dollars
Here's a bridge from start to finish. It's an illustration, not a client file: the 7% rate, the purchase costs and the selling costs are our assumptions, and the timing follows Firstmac's policy [1][2].
| Step | Amount |
|---|---|
| What you owe on your home today | $300,000 |
| The new home's price | $1,100,000 |
| Purchase costs, such as stamp duty and fees (assumed) | $50,000 |
| What you owe the day you buy | $1,450,000 |
| Interest for months four to six, added to the loan | about $25,500 |
| Peak debt, at the end of month six | about $1,475,500 plus the upfront fee: about 74% of the two homes' combined $2,000,000 |
| Your old home sells for | $900,000 |
| Less selling costs (assumed) | $25,000 |
| Paid off the loan from the sale | $875,000 |
| End debt: your new home loan | about $600,500 plus the upfront fee: about 55% of the new home's value |
You own a home worth $900,000 and owe $300,000 on it. You buy a new home for $1,100,000. At Firstmac the first three months are interest free, with an upfront fee added to the loan instead; interest for months four to six is added to the loan [1]. The upfront fee's amount isn't in the policy we hold, so each figure below leaves it out and says so.
Why does the lender assume your home sells for 20% less?
Because a lender can't count on the price you expect. Firstmac's policy tests the end debt as if the home being sold fetches 20% less than its value, and caps both the peak debt and that tested end debt at 80% of the value [1]. It's a test, not a forecast: the lender is checking the loan still works if the sale disappoints.
In the example, 20% less than $900,000 is $720,000. Taken off the peak debt, that leaves a tested end debt of about $755,500 plus the upfront fee, around 69% of the new home's value [2]. That's under Firstmac's 80% cap, so the example passes.
What this means for you: budget on the price the lender will test, not the one the agent hopes for. If your plan only works at the full price, it may not pass, and it's this test that decides the approval.
What if your home sells for less than you hoped?
If your home sells for less, the end debt is bigger, because less money comes back to the loan. Here's the same example at four sale prices, with $25,000 of selling costs taken off each [2].
| Your home sells for | Paid off the loan | End debt | Share of the new home's $1,100,000 |
|---|---|---|---|
| $900,000 | $875,000 | about $600,500 | about 55% |
| $850,000 | $825,000 | about $650,500 | about 59% |
| $800,000 | $775,000 | about $700,500 | about 64% |
| $720,000 | $695,000 | about $780,500 | about 71% |
The last row is a sale at the lender's own test price. The real end debt there is higher than the tested figure in part 7, because a real sale also has selling costs.
How is interest charged on a bridging loan?
On a bridging loan, interest is usually added to the loan rather than paid each month, so you don't make repayments on two homes at once. Firstmac's policy sets out exactly how its bridge charges interest, month by month [1]:
Months 1 to 3: no interest. An upfront fee is added to the loan instead, and it isn't refunded if the bridge ends within these three months.
Months 4 to 6: interest is worked out on daily balances and added to the loan each month. No repayments. The debt peaks at the end of month 6.
Months 7 to 12, on a 12-month bridge only: interest on the peak debt, paid as monthly interest-only repayments.
During the bridge: the rate is fixed.
After the bridge: the rate becomes variable, and the end debt runs as an ordinary home loan.
Because the interest is added to the loan, you don't feel it each month. You see it at the end, in the end debt.
What does a bridging loan cost while you own both homes?
A bridge costs more than interest. These are the costs that run while both homes are yours:
Interest on the peak debt, usually added to the loan. At Firstmac the first three months are interest free; after that, every extra month the old home takes to sell adds to what you owe [1].
An upfront fee, added to the loan in place of the first three months' interest at Firstmac. It isn't refunded if the bridge ends within those three months, so selling quickly doesn't get it back [1].
Repayments in months 7 to 12, on a 12-month Firstmac bridge only: interest-only, on the peak debt [1].
Purchase costs on the new home, such as stamp duty and fees. They're part of the peak debt.
Selling costs on the old home, such as the agent's fee and marketing. They come out of the sale before it reaches the loan.
Two sets of property costs: rates, insurance and upkeep on both homes until the sale settles.
Work out the duty on the new home with the stamp duty calculator.
How long can a bridging loan last?
A bridging loan has an end date, set at the start. Firstmac's bridge period is 6 or 12 months, chosen when the loan begins, with no other option and no extension in its policy [1].
That end date is the reason to sell with a plan, not a hope. The bridging part has to be repaid when the period ends, whether or not your home has sold.
Six months or twelve: why the choice is about your income
Choosing between a 6-month and a 12-month bridge isn't only about time to sell. At Firstmac it changes whether you make repayments during the bridge, and whether the lender tests that you can afford them [1].
On a 6-month Firstmac bridge there are no repayments, because the interest is added to the loan, and no test of the bridge period. On a 12-month bridge there are none for months 1 to 6, then interest-only repayments on the peak debt for months 7 to 12, and your income left after costs must cover those repayments at the bridging rate [1]. Either way the end debt is tested over the rest of the loan term: a 30-year loan with a 12-month bridge is tested over 29 years [1].
In the example, interest-only repayments on a peak debt of about $1,475,500 at 7% come to about $8,600 a month, or about $51,600 over months 7 to 12, a little more once the upfront fee is in the peak [2].
What this means for you: choosing 12 months for comfort brings a test that 6 months avoids. If your income can't carry the repayments on the peak debt on top of your living costs, the longer bridge may be the harder one to get, and the shorter one leaves less time to sell.
What happens if your house doesn't sell in time?
If your house doesn't sell in time, the interest keeps adding to the debt while it sits, and when the bridge period ends the bridging part still has to be repaid. Firstmac's policy names no extension [1]. In practice that can mean cutting the asking price to sell before the end date.
This is the question to answer before you start, not after. Work out the lowest price you'd accept, check the end debt still works at that price (part 8), and work out how many months of interest you could carry. On a 12-month bridge in the example, each month from month 7 costs about $8,600 in repayments [2].
Sell first, buy first, or bridge: which way makes sense?
There are three ways to move from one home to the next, and only one of them is a bridging loan. Which suits you depends on the market, how sure you are of your price, and how much you'd pay to get the right home.
| Route | What you gain | What it costs you |
|---|---|---|
| Sell first | You know exactly what you have to spend, with no bridging cost | The next home may not be there in time, and you may need to rent in between |
| Buy with a long settlement, or subject to selling yours | The two settlements can line up without a bridging loan | Sellers don't always accept those terms |
| Bridge | You can buy the right home when it comes up | Interest, fees, two sets of property costs, and the risk of a slow sale |
Which lenders offer bridging loans?
Not every lender offers a bridging loan, and the ones that do set their own rules on how long, how much and where. Firstmac publishes its full lending policy, so its bridging rules are the ones we can set out here in full (part 16) [1].
Other lenders' bridging terms aren't on this page, because we haven't confirmed them from a document we can quote. Where a lender's rules aren't verified, we leave them out rather than guess, and check them for your situation instead.
Firstmac's bridging loan: the terms in full
Firstmac's published policy sets out its bridging rules in one section [1]. Here they are in plain words:
Credit score: at least 700 on Equifax for the main borrower, meaning the borrower with the highest income [1].
The new home: must be one you'll live in. The home you're selling can be your home or an investment [1].
How much: up to 80% of the value at the peak, and 80% on the end debt with the 20% cut to your home's value applied. Peak debt up to $3.0 million, back to its standard limits after the sale [1].
Where: only in the postcodes its policy lists as Category 1a and 1b, which rules out much of the country [1].
Open bridging: your home must be listed for sale before the new purchase settles [1].
Security: mortgages over both homes from the start. Any loan on the home you're selling moves to Firstmac and settles at the same time as the purchase [1].
Term: a bridge of 6 or 12 months, chosen at the start. A fixed rate during the bridge, variable after. An upfront fee added to the loan [1].
Each one is a gate: miss any of them and Firstmac's bridge isn't open to you, however the numbers look.
What does a lender want to see before approving a bridging loan?
Valuations of both homes, because the loan is secured on both.
Evidence of the sale, for closed bridging, or that your home is listed, for open bridging.
A clean credit record. Firstmac sets a minimum credit score of 700 for the borrower with the highest income [1].
Income that covers the end debt, tested over the rest of the loan term [1].
Income that covers months 7 to 12, if you choose a 12-month Firstmac bridge [1].
The right property and place: at Firstmac, a new home you'll live in, in a Category 1a or 1b postcode [1].
Can I keep my current bank and bridge with another lender?
Not at Firstmac. Its policy needs any loan on the home you're selling to be refinanced to Firstmac, settling at the same time as the new purchase, and it takes a mortgage over both homes [1].
So bridging can mean moving your current loan as well as taking the new one. Any cost of leaving your current lender belongs in the sums before you decide.
How much can you borrow on a bridging loan?
How much you can borrow on a bridging loan is set by two limits on value and one on income. At Firstmac, the peak debt can't pass 80% of the two homes' combined value, the tested end debt can't pass 80% of the new home's value, and the peak debt can't pass $3.0 million [1]. Then your income has to carry the end debt.
In the example, 80% of $2,000,000 is $1,600,000, so a peak of about $1,475,500 leaves about $124,500 of room before the fee. 80% of the new home's $1,100,000 is $880,000, so a tested end debt of about $755,500 leaves the same room [2].
What this means for you: the room in those limits is roughly how much more you could spend on the new home, before costs, and still pass the value tests. Your income is a separate test. Banks check you could still make the repayments if rates were at least 3 percentage points higher [5]. See how much can I borrow.
Do you pay lenders mortgage insurance on a bridging loan?
Not usually at Firstmac, because its bridge is capped at 80% of the value at the peak, and on the end debt after its 20% test [1]. Lenders mortgage insurance (LMI), the insurance a lender takes out when you borrow more than 80% of a property's value, and you pay for, doesn't normally apply at or under 80% [4].
If you were counting on a professional LMI waiver to buy before you sell, check that it covers bridging. ANZ's medical waiver and Suncorp's waiver for medical practitioners both exclude bridging loans [3]. See LMI waivers.
Can you use a bridging loan for an investment property?
At Firstmac, only on the side you're selling. The home you're selling can be an investment, but the new one must be a home you'll live in [1]. So a Firstmac bridge is for moving into your own next home, not for buying an investment before you sell.
If an investment is the goal, the usual route is the equity in the home you own: see using equity to buy an investment property.
Bridging when you're downsizing or retired
Bridging can suit someone downsizing, where the sale clears most or all of the debt. On a 6-month Firstmac bridge there are no repayments and no test of repayments during the bridge [1], so what matters most is whether you'll have an end debt, and whether your income covers it.
If the sale leaves no end debt, the Firstmac loan ends with the bridge [1]. If it leaves some, a lender will want to see how it gets repaid on retirement income: see home loans for pensioners.
What to do before you sign for the next home
In this order:
Get a realistic price for your home: an appraisal, and the lowest price you'd accept.
Work out the peak and end debt at that lowest price, not the hoped-for one (parts 6 and 8).
Test the end debt the lender's way: at Firstmac, your home at 20% less than its value (part 7).
Choose 6 or 12 months on your income, not on a hunch (part 12).
Check the lender's gates: credit score, location and a new home you'll live in (part 16).
List your home before the new purchase settles, if the bridge is open (part 3).
Have the finance approved before the contract on the new home becomes unconditional.
What does a broker cost you?
How a broker is paid, and the rule Money Brain holds against it, is set out in full on its own page: what a mortgage broker costs.
Your first move
You've read how a bridge works and how it's tested. Now there's one question left: do your two homes, at the price you'd really accept, pass the lender's test, and is 6 or 12 months right for your income? That's what Money Brain works out before anything goes to a lender.
When you're ready, the closing section below is the simplest way to start.
Buying before you sell?
Tell me what your home is worth and what you owe, what you're buying and for how much, and whether yours is sold or listed. I'll work out your peak and end debt, test it the way a lender will, and tell you which lenders are worth asking.
You'll hear back within the hour in business hours, and by 9am the next business day after hours.
Bridging finance questions
A bridging loan lets you buy your next home before you sell the one you're in. The lender takes a mortgage over both homes, the interest is usually added to the loan, and the sale of your old home pays down the bridging part. What's left becomes your new home loan.
Sources
- 1
Firstmac, Property Lending Policy (September 2026), section 32, bridging loans. First read 27 August 2026 (then titled Residential Lending Policy); section 32 re-read in full 2 October 2026.
- 2
The worked example: Money Brain's arithmetic on the stated figures and assumptions (7% a year, illustrative; interest for months four to six only, compounding monthly; the upfront fee left out). Run 22 October 2026.
- 3
ANZ and Suncorp: professional LMI waiver policies, medical groups (no bridging loans). Checked 1 October 2026; re-checked 21 October 2026.
- 4
Lenders mortgage insurance: one lender's published rate card, indicative; LMI does not normally apply at or under 80% of the value. Confirmed current 21 October 2026.
- 5
APRA, Strengthening residential mortgage lending assessments (6 October 2021): serviceability buffer of at least 3 percentage points; held at 3 points in APRA's release of 28 May 2026. Re-read 29 September 2026.
Updated 2 October 2026